Peru is Beautiful

Yesterday at sunset I found myself speeding down the Pan-American highway, 3 degrees south of the equator, riding shotgun in the Peace Corps mobile with our country director at the wheel. To my right I watched the large orange sun sink into the breaking waves of Peru's best surfing beaches. To my left I looked out over miles of healthy green rice fields dotted with palm trees and waterfowl. Ahead I saw a group of panicking goats trying frantically to jump over the guard rails before our vehicle barreled into their midst. In the distance was a series of desert hills and canyons that called to mind the American Southwest.

I've grown to appreciate moments such as these because a) I'm in Peru and should appreciate every moment and b) my life this past week has been so crazy that all I can do is focus on the moments themselves.

Here are some moments from my past week:

Thursday, Thanksgiving: My first bite of anticucho (beef heart). My host family took me out to dinner in Lima for our last night together. They ordered an amazing spread of food and drink, and were very excited for me to try this Peruvian delicacy. It's delicious. Their kindness and reflecting on all they've done for me since I came to Peru made this one of my best Thanksgiving's ever.

Friday: Standing in front of the American, Peruvian, and Peace Corps flags under a canopy of red, white, and blue, swearing to defend the constitution in times of peace and war. A strange oath for the Peace Corps indeed. I would have been much more unsettled had we not just elected a leader I trust to never make me uphold that promise unjustly.

Later on Friday: Looking out the bus window through a veil of tears, watching our host families chase after us as we pulled out of Chaclacayo for the last time.

Saturday: On the bus-cama, feeling horrible. Packing was rushed and messy, our night in the hostal in Lima was hectic, and the time to say goodbye to our new friends and support came all too soon. I felt sick, drained, and exhausted. Suddenly I looked out the window. We were driving along some of the most striking sand-dune cliffs falling into the ocean. I'd never seen anything quite like it. All five of us on the bus looked out the window in awe.

Sunday: What I remember most is my gaze fixed on my wallet. My wallet was in my hand, but my arm was in the hand of a thief, who was in a mototaxi that accelerated faster and faster as I ran along side it. I don't remember letting go, and I don't remember falling.

Monday: I hung up my mosquito net with dental floss because I didn't think to bring rope. I sort-of unpacked my things. I crawled into bed and felt cozy within my white mesh canopy. Finally, after 6 months of being largely transient, I was home again.

Tuesday: I was watching a new soap opera, "Bellezas Indominables" with my new host sister. During a commercial break, she asks if I have children. I'm used to this conversation. "No," I say. "Are you going to get married?" she asks. "I don't know," I say, "Are you?" "I don't know," she says, "Only if I find the right guy." What?? Only if I find the right guy? That's never the answer in this conservative country. I think I'm really going to like this girl.

Wednesday: I go on a walk around Malval and see a bunch of guys working in a field. I walk over to them. They are packaging freshly harvested organic bananas on their way to the USA. Cool!!

Thursday: At a meeting launching our Tumbes-wide HIV/AIDS education initiative sponsored by PEPFAR. A mayor stands up and says, "You know, I think it's really all about the youth. I mean, young people don't go to their parents, their teachers, or their health posts to talk about sex. They go to their peers. So, we need to reach out to their peers." Yes!! Yes!! Yes!!

This morning: Woke up with a start. I had a terrible nightmare that Huascaran was destroyed by a volcanic eruption and almost everyone was killed. I was so happy to wake up and find it wasn't true. I rolled over and switched on the TV, CNN in English. Where am I? Not Malval, that's for sure. I'm in Piura. I have a doctor's appointment today to get my leg checked out. Just want to make sure that there'll be no lasting damage before I start this Peace Corps thing for real.